Courses & dish types
The centre of the plate.
36 recipes

Coarse beef mince browned in batches then held at a bare simmer for three hours, finished in the pan with the pasta.

Spaghetti in a sauce of nothing but pecorino, black pepper and starchy pasta water, emulsified off the heat so it stays smooth.

A whole chicken salted and left uncovered in the fridge before roasting hot then moderate, so the skin crisps and the breast stays juicy.

Salmon fillets cooked almost entirely on the skin side in one pan, which crisps the skin and leaves the flesh barely set.

Three toppings, nothing hidden — this is the pizza that shows whether your dough is any good.

An enriched pastry loaf layered with salmon, rice, egg and dill, baked until the crust sounds hollow.

Mushrooms baked in a bechamel-style sauce under grated cheese, in individual dishes, browned under the grill.

Breaded minced-chicken cutlets enriched with butter and cream-soaked bread, fried until the crust is deep gold.

Beef, potato and root vegetables braised slowly in one pot until the meat pulls apart under a fork.

Dried chickpeas cooked from scratch and thickened with fried bread pounded to a paste, which is how Seville gets body without cream.

Farro boiled like pasta and dressed while it is still hot, under roast squash, crisped kale and feta, so it eats as a meal.

Whole urad soaked overnight and simmered for hours until it turns black and glossy, then finished with butter and a little cream.

Lentils and rice cooked in one pot under a mound of onions fried well past golden, which is where the whole flavour comes from.

Small meat dumplings in thin dough, boiled until they float and served with smetana or with butter and vinegar.

Buckwheat toasted dry, then cooked pilaf-style with onion and mushrooms so the grains stay separate.

Larger Ukrainian dumplings filled with potato and fried onion or with sweetened curd, boiled and dressed in butter.

Baked potatoes riced while hot and bound with as little flour as they will take, which is the difference between light gnocchi and bullets.

Cabbage leaves rolled around seasoned mince and rice, then braised slowly in tomato and soured cream.

Everyday Soviet-era mince patties bound with milk-soaked bread, which keeps them tender rather than springy.

Rice steamed over lamb, carrot and cumin in a heavy pot, left unstirred so the grains stay separate.

Cubed lamb marinated in grated onion and vinegar, then grilled on flat skewers over embers until charred at the edges.

Bomba rice cooked flat and never stirred in a wide pan, which keeps the grains separate and toasts a crust onto the base.

Beef coated in cornflour and seared in batches in a pan hot enough to smoke, with the sauce going in only at the very end.

Pork mince bound with a milk and bread panade and toasted fennel seed, browned in a pan and finished in tomato sauce.

A store-cupboard sauce of anchovies, olives, capers and chilli melted into tomato, salty enough that it needs no cheese and barely any salt.

Yesterday's rice broken up cold and fried hard in a wide pan, so the grains stay separate and toast instead of steaming to paste.

A bone-in leg studded with garlic and rosemary, roasted hot then moderate and pulled off the heat pink, with gravy made in the tin.

Chuck steak simmered in dark ale until it gives, with suet dumplings steamed on the surface of the pot for the last half hour.

Bone-in thighs roasted on top of potatoes and lemon in one tin, so the skin crisps above the juices rather than poaching in them.

Strips of beef seared fast and finished in a soured-cream and mustard sauce that is warmed through rather than boiled.

Carnaroli rice cooked in stock a ladle at a time and beaten with butter at the end, so it spreads on the plate rather than sitting in a heap.

Crumbed chicken breast sealed around garlic-and-herb butter, chilled hard so the filling stays in until cutting.

Ragu and béchamel layered thin between dried pasta sheets, baked until the top blisters and rested so it cuts into squares.

Guanciale, egg yolk and pecorino brought together off the heat into a glossy sauce, with no cream anywhere near the pan.

Red lentils simmered down to a loose puree with turmeric, then finished with cumin, mustard seed and garlic bloomed in hot ghee.

Beef shin browned hard then cooked for hours at a bare simmer, until the collagen melts and the meat falls apart under a fork.