Fried twice, with a rest between. The first fry cooks it and the second drives off the surface moisture, which is why the coating stays crisp under sauce.
Named from the ingredients as written, including those carried in from sub-recipes. This is not a guarantee — check the labels on what you actually buy, and note that a product’s recipe can change.
Toss the wings with the wine, salt, pepper and ginger and leave for 15 minutes.
Pat them thoroughly dry, then toss in the potato starch until every surface is dusted, shaking off the excess.
Potato starch rather than flour. It contains no gluten and fries into a much thinner, glassier, harder shell, which is the characteristic texture of Korean fried chicken and is quite different from the craggy buttermilk-and-flour crust of the American kind.
Heat the oil to 160C and fry the wings in three batches for 7 minutes each, until pale gold and cooked through.
Lift them onto a rack and leave them for at least 10 minutes.
Raise the oil to 190C and fry each batch again for 3 minutes, until deep gold and visibly hard.
The two fries do different jobs. The first cooks the chicken at a temperature low enough not to burn the coating; the rest lets steam escape from inside; the second, hotter fry drives the remaining surface moisture off and sets a shell hard enough to survive being sauced. One fry cannot do both, and this is why Korean fried chicken stays crisp under a wet glaze when other fried chicken does not.
While they rest, simmer the gochujang, honey, soy, vinegar, garlic and sesame oil in a wide pan for 3 minutes until glossy and slightly thickened.
Take the sauce off the heat, add the twice-fried wings and toss until every piece is coated.
Work fast and serve immediately. The shell is hard enough to hold for a few minutes and no longer.
Scatter with sesame seeds and spring onions.
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Sweet, hot and deeply savoury from the gochujang, with vinegar cutting through and sesame oil at the end. Gochujang is fermented, so the heat comes with a funky depth that chilli sauce alone does not have.
Frying chicken, then a sharp sweet-hot smell when the sauce goes on.
The entire dish. A shell thin enough to be glassy, hard enough to crack, and dry enough to stay crisp under sauce for several minutes.
The crack of the first bite, which is what the double fry buys.
Sweetness first, then heat building, then a long fermented savoury finish with sesame at the end.
Very hot, immediately after saucing.
Cold lager — the pairing has a name, chimaek — and pickled white radish, which cuts the richness and is served with it as standard.
Moderate. Two fries at two temperatures with a rest is more discipline than difficulty.
Low. Wings are among the cheapest chicken there is.
A deep heavy pan, a thermometer and a wire rack.
A Friday, with beer.
None.
Pale gold after the first fry, deep gold and visibly hard after the second. The shell should look thin and glassy rather than thick and craggy.
A shell that cracks audibly and stays crisp for several minutes under a wet glaze, which is the whole point of the technique.
Chicken at 74C/165F instantaneous (USDA), or 70C for two minutes / 75C instantaneously (UK Food Standards Agency) — reached during the first fry, so the second is purely about texture. Hot oil: a deep pan no more than a third full, nothing wet going in, a lid within reach.
Soggy under sauce: it had one fry, or no rest. Coating clumped: the chicken was wet. Dark and bitter: the second fry was too long or too hot. Sauce sliding off: it needed the full 3 minutes of reducing.
Do the first fry up to two hours ahead and hold the wings on a rack; the second fry and the saucing take ten minutes.
Best immediately. They keep a day.
An oven or air fryer at 200C for 6 minutes. Better than most fried food survives.
Not once sauced. Twice-fried unsauced wings freeze and reheat acceptably.
Cold, which is genuinely good, or reheated hard and re-sauced.
Fry in three batches regardless.
Drumsticks or boneless thigh, both fried a couple of minutes longer. Gochujang has no real substitute; sriracha with a little miso is a distant approximation.
Contains gluten and soya from the soy sauce and gochujang, and sesame. Tamari and a gluten-free gochujang make it gluten free. Dairy free, egg free and nut free, which is unusual for fried chicken.
Gochujang and potato starch from a Korean or general Asian grocer, both cheap and both keeping well.
Wings are among the cheapest cuts and this is a cheap dish for what it delivers. Strain and reuse the oil.
Chicken has the lowest footprint of the common meats, and wings are the part of the bird with the least demand relative to supply — cooking them takes pressure off breast and is one of the better whole-carcass choices available. The frying oil is the main consideration: strain it through a sieve, reuse it twice, and bin it rather than pouring it away.
Fried and glazed, and honest about it. Wings are relatively lean under the skin.
Fry it twice with a rest between. It sounds like fussiness and it is the reason this stays crisp when nothing else does.
South Korea.
Yangnyeom chikin for the sauced version; chikin generally.
yang-nyum CHEE-kin.
Yangnyeom means seasoning or sauce; chikin is the English word borrowed back.
Fried chicken came to Korea with the American military presence after the Korean War, and was adapted rather than copied — the twice-fry, the thin starch coating and the sauced finish are all Korean developments through the 1970s and 80s, alongside the growth of dedicated chicken shops. Chimaek, the pairing of chicken and beer, became a genuine social institution, and Korean fried chicken has since spread worldwide, accelerated considerably by Korean television and film.
Large. It is a national late-night and social food with its own vocabulary, its own chains and its own place in popular culture.
Late night, football, and anything involving beer and several people.
The double fry, which is the defining technique and is genuinely different from Western fried chicken practice.
From an American import to something quite distinct in about twenty years.
Soy-garlic and plain 'original' are the two other standards. Snow cheese, honey butter and countless others exist.
Nothing unorthodox. The reason for the double fry is explained rather than instructed, because it transfers to any fried food.
No individual. Several chains claim credit for the sauced version.