The weeknight kind, with seasoned beef in warm corn tortillas. Tex-Mex rather than Mexican, and better for admitting it — the seasoning is made from whole spices rather than a sachet.
Toast the cumin and coriander seeds in a dry pan for a minute until they pop and darken, then grind them and mix with the two paprikas, the oregano and the cayenne.
Heat the oil in a wide frying pan over high heat and add the mince in one layer.
Leave it undisturbed for 4 minutes, until the underside is properly browned, then break it up.
Push the meat to one side, add the onion to the clear space and cook for 6 minutes until soft.
Add the garlic and the ground spice mix and stir everything together for 90 seconds. Toasting the spices in the fat is what separates this from a sachet stirred into water.
Stir in the tomato purée and cook for 1 minute more.
Pour in the stock, add the salt and simmer for 12 to 15 minutes, until the liquid has reduced to a glaze that clings to the meat with nothing loose in the pan.
Add the vinegar off the heat and taste for salt.
Warm the tortillas one at a time in a dry pan for 20 seconds a side, until they are soft and freckled, and keep them stacked under a clean tea towel.
Double up the tortillas if they are thin, fill with the beef, and top with raw onion, coriander, lettuce and a squeeze of lime.
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Warm and earthy rather than hot — cumin leads, the two paprikas give sweetness and smoke, and the cayenne sits behind them. Salty and savoury, cut sharply by lime and raw onion.
Toasting cumin, which is the strongest smell in the recipe and lasts under a minute, then frying spice in beef fat.
Soft tortilla, soft meat, and then the crunch of raw onion and lettuce, which is why they are not optional.
The tortillas puffing slightly in the dry pan, and the sizzle when the spices hit the fat.
Earthy cumin first, then fat and salt, then the lime arriving at the end and resetting the palate for the next bite. It is designed to be eaten repeatedly rather than savoured.
Hot filling in a warm tortilla with cold toppings. Three temperatures in one mouthful, deliberately.
Rice and black beans, or nothing. A cold lager with lime, or a Paloma.
Easy.
Low.
A wide frying pan, a dry pan for the spices and tortillas, and a spice grinder or pestle and mortar.
A weeknight, twenty minutes of actual attention.
None.
The meat dark and glossy, coated rather than sitting in sauce. Tilt the pan: nothing should run.
Soft separate grains of meat, moist but not wet.
Mince must be cooked through and is here by a wide margin. Nothing else unusual.
Wet: keep reducing, uncovered, on a higher heat. Bland: salt, then acid. Harsh or dusty: the spices were not toasted, or too much cayenne. Tortillas cracking: they were not warm enough; 20 seconds a side in a dry pan.
The filling and the spice mix, both up to three days ahead. Make double the spice mix; it keeps a month in a jar.
Three days in the fridge for the filling. Tortillas are best warmed fresh.
A pan with a splash of water, two minutes.
The filling freezes for three months.
Over rice with beans, in a baked potato, or under cheese in a quesadilla.
Doubles well. Brown the meat in two batches rather than one deep pan.
Ground cumin and coriander work at 1½ tsp and ¾ tsp respectively, and are noticeably duller. Flour tortillas instead of corn, which adds gluten. Turkey or pork mince both work; lamb does not.
No declared allergens as written with corn tortillas, which makes this one of the few gluten-free dishes here that needs no substitution at all. Dairy free and egg free unless cheese or soured cream go on top. Check the stock, which is where celery and sulphites usually enter.
Good corn tortillas are worth seeking out from a Mexican grocer or the world food aisle; they are a different product from the supermarket wheat 'tortilla wrap'.
Whole cumin and coriander seed cost less per use than a sachet and last a year.
Beef again, and 150g a head. This is one of the easier dishes to reduce it in, because the filling is already a strongly seasoned glaze rather than the centre of attention: 400g of mince with a drained tin of black beans added at the reduction stage fills twelve tacos and tastes of the same spice mix. Corn tortillas are also the low-impact half of the plate and the better product; there is no trade-off there at all.
Reasonable, and made better by the amount of raw vegetable that goes on top.
Four minutes of toasting and grinding, and it stops tasting like a packet.
Texas and the American southwest.
Tacos de carne molida — ground meat tacos — in Spanish.
TAH-koh.
Taco in Mexican Spanish means a plug or wad, and its application to food is documented from the nineteenth century, when it referred to what silver miners used the word for.
The taco is a Mexican form with enormous regional variety — al pastor, carnitas, birria, barbacoa, pescado — and almost none of it involves seasoned ground beef. The version in this recipe is Tex-Mex: it develops in Texan Mexican-American cooking and reaches the wider United States and then Britain through mid-century restaurants and, decisively, through commercial taco kits with hard shells and seasoning sachets from the 1960s onwards.
The taco is central to Mexican food culture and the ground-beef version is central to American home cooking. Both things are true and they are not the same claim.
Weeknight family dinner, and the sort of meal people assemble at the table.
Corn tortillas, warmed on a comal, filled and eaten immediately.
Whole spices became a sachet, corn tortillas became a hard shell, and cheese and lettuce were added.
This site has Carnitas, Tacos al Pastor and Birria de Res, all of which are Mexican and all of which are different dishes rather than variants of this one.
Whole spices toasted and ground rather than a sachet, soft corn tortillas rather than hard shells, and the liquid reduced to a glaze rather than left loose. It is still the Tex-Mex dish and does not pretend otherwise.
None.