Courses & dish types
Liquid, restorative, endlessly variable.
18 recipes

A brothy Sichuan-style soup thickened with a cornflour slurry and finished with vinegar and beaten egg off the heat, so both stay sharp.

A chilled Andalusian soup of raw tomatoes, cucumber and pepper blended with bread and olive oil, which is what turns it creamy rather than watery.

Cabbage soup simmered in meat broth, made sour with sauerkraut in winter and with fresh cabbage in summer.

A thick sour-salty soup of mixed cured meats, brined cucumbers, olives and lemon, built on their brine as much as stock.

A cold soup of raw vegetables, ham and egg poured with sour kvass at the table, so nothing in the bowl goes soft.

Undyed smoked haddock poached in milk, with that milk becoming the soup and floury potato doing the thickening in place of flour.

Yellow split peas simmered with a smoked ham hock until they collapse into the broth, thickening the soup with nothing but themselves.

Barley and pickled cucumber soup, sharpened at the end with the pickle brine itself rather than with vinegar.

Squash roasted until the cut faces caramelise, then blended with stock and sage, which gives a depth that simmering raw cubes never reaches.

Clear freshwater fish broth, never thickened and barely seasoned, so what you taste is the fish and the water it cooked in.

Beetroot and cabbage soup built on beef broth, with the grated beetroot added late and with acid so it stays red.

Dried mushrooms soaked and their soaking liquor used as the stock, with pearl barley cooked in it until the pot turns thick.

Poached chicken and vegetables in a clear stock, with the noodles cooked apart so the broth stays clean rather than thick and starchy.

A chunky vegetable soup built on a slow soffritto, with beans and small pasta simmered in the broth so it thickens as it stands.

Tomatoes roasted hard with garlic until the edges blacken, then blitzed, so the flavour concentrates instead of thinning out in a pan of stock.

Onions cooked down for an hour until they are jammy and dark, then finished under the grill with a raft of bread and melted cheese.

A thick corn soup that simmers the stripped cobs in the stock first, then blends only part of itself for body.

A shiitake and kombu broth that starts with a half-hour soak, finished with white miso and topped with seven-minute eggs.