Silky Miso Mushroom Ramen

Soak the shiitake and kombu in the water for at least 30 minutes, or overnight in the fridge for a rounder broth.

Heat gently and pull out the kombu just before the water boils — boiling it turns the broth bitter.

Simmer for 15 minutes.

Strain the broth and keep it warm.

Slice the rehydrated shiitake and set them aside.

Lower the eggs into boiling water and cook for exactly 7 minutes, timed from the moment they go in.

Lift them straight into iced water for 2 minutes. Skip the cold shock and they keep cooking inside the shell, so the yolk sets firm while you are still peeling.

Peel the eggs and halve them lengthways.

Sear the fresh mushrooms in the oil over high heat for 5-6 minutes, until browned at the edges. Do not crowd the pan or they steam, which the mushrooms on toast in this collection sets out at length.

Whisk the miso with a ladle of hot broth until smooth, then stir it back in off the heat. Never boil miso; it goes flat and grainy and the aroma is gone. The sweetcorn chowder in this collection ends the same way, with the pan kept below a boil once the finishing ingredient is in.

Season the broth with the soy sauce and sesame oil.

Cook the noodles in a separate pan of boiling water for 1-2 minutes, until just tender.

Drain the noodles well, or the water clinging to them will thin the broth.

Build the bowls: noodles, broth, both kinds of mushroom.

Top each bowl with two egg halves, the spring onions and a spill of chilli oil.

Stand two half-sheets of nori against the inside of each bowl at the last moment, leaving most of each piece clear of the broth. Pushed under, it turns slippery and falls apart within a minute.