The stilton goes in off the heat, and there is less of it than you think. Blue cheese is strong and salty and a soup that tastes only of it has lost the broccoli entirely.
Named from the ingredients as written, including those carried in from sub-recipes. This is not a guarantee — check the labels on what you actually buy, and note that a product’s recipe can change.
Melt the butter and cook the onion and celery gently for 8 minutes without colouring.
Add the potato and stock and simmer for 10 minutes.
Use the broccoli stalk as well as the florets. Peel the tough outer layer off and chop the rest — it is sweeter than the florets and throwing it away discards a third of the vegetable.
Add the broccoli and the salt and simmer for just 5 minutes, until the stalks are tender.
Five minutes and no more. Broccoli boiled hard goes from bright green to olive drab, and the soup's colour is most of its appeal.
Blend immediately until smooth.
Return to the pan over low heat and add the Stilton a handful at a time, stirring until it melts.
Do not let it boil after the cheese goes in. Blue cheese splits readily and a boiled soup goes grainy with fat on the surface.
Stir in the cream and the pepper, and taste before adding any salt. Stilton is very salty and the soup often needs none at all.
Serve with a little extra crumbled Stilton on top.
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Salty and savoury first from the Stilton, then the sweet green flavour of broccoli underneath. The balance is the whole difficulty: too much cheese and the broccoli disappears.
Blue cheese, mostly, with the broccoli behind it.
Smooth and velvety, thickened by the potato rather than by flour.
None.
Salt and blue cheese first, then a green sweetness, then a long savoury finish. Black pepper at the end lifts it.
Hot but not boiling, and it should be served in a warmed bowl.
Crusty bread or a cheese scone. A glass of something white and sharp.
Beginner, with two things to not overdo.
Low.
A heavy pan and a blender.
Winter lunch, and the week after Christmas.
British broccoli runs roughly July to November; the soup suits winter regardless.
The stalks tender to a knife and the florets still bright green. The finished soup should be a clear green, not olive.
Smooth, with the cheese fully melted and no grain.
Nothing unusual. Take care blending hot liquid — no more than two-thirds full and a cloth over the lid.
Khaki: it was overcooked, and the colour will not come back. Grainy: it boiled after the cheese went in. Overwhelmingly cheesy: more stock and another handful of blanched broccoli. Thin: another boiled potato, blended in.
Make the base ahead and add the cheese on reheating, which also protects the colour.
Three days in the fridge.
Gently, without boiling, or the cheese will split on the second heating even though it survived the first.
Freezes for two months, though the colour dulls and the cheese can go slightly grainy. Better frozen before the cheese goes in.
As a sauce for pasta, thinned with a little cream.
Doubles cleanly.
Any blue cheese; Stilton is milder than Roquefort, which would need reducing to about 90g. A mature Cheddar makes a different and perfectly good soup.
Contains milk, plus celery and sulphites from shop stock. Stilton is made with animal rennet, so it is not vegetarian — this is a very common misconception about the soup and worth stating plainly. A vegetarian blue cheese exists and is the straightforward substitute. Gluten free, egg free and nut free.
Any Stilton. It does not need to be a good piece — this is the recipe for the dry end of one.
The end of a Stilton, which is what this soup exists for. Broccoli stalks are free flavour.
Mostly vegetables, and the cheese is the footprint — roughly ten litres of milk per kilogram, though only 120g is used here. Its real virtue is waste: it is the standard British answer to the last piece of a Christmas Stilton, and using the broccoli stalk rather than binning it recovers about a third of the vegetable. Broccoli grows well in Britain from summer to late autumn.
A lot of vegetable, with the fat and salt coming from the cheese and cream.
Five minutes, and less cheese than you think. Both feel wrong and both are right.
Britain, late twentieth century.
None.
Straightforward.
Descriptive.
This is a modern soup and it is more honest to say so than to construct a heritage. Stilton, by contrast, is old and legally protected: it has had a Protected Designation of Origin since 1996 and may only be made in Derbyshire, Leicestershire and Nottinghamshire — famously not in the village of Stilton itself, which is in Cambridgeshire and where the cheese was sold to travellers rather than made. Broccoli in the form we eat it, calabrese, became widely available in Britain only in the later twentieth century, which is why the soup cannot be older than it is.
A pub-menu and supermarket-carton staple, and one of the small number of blue-cheese dishes that people who dislike blue cheese will eat.
Lunch, cold weather, and using up the end of a Christmas Stilton, which is what a great deal of it is made from.
None beyond blending.
It has not been around long enough to change.
None.
Five minutes on the broccoli rather than fifteen, the stalk used rather than binned, and considerably less cheese than most recipes call for.
None.