14 recipes

A lightly fermented drink made from dried dark rye bread, sugar and yeast, sour and faintly sweet.

A five per cent salt brine for lean chicken and pork, chilled hard before the meat goes in, with the timings that stop it going spongy.

Whole spices toasted one kind at a time, cooled and ground, which is what separates a fresh blend from the grey dust in a jar.

Fresh curd cheese drained from gently warmed soured milk, the base several Russian sweet and baked dishes are built on.

Basil, pine nuts, garlic and cheese pounded to a coarse sauce, kept cold throughout so the leaves stay green instead of bruising brown.

A white sauce built on a cooked butter and flour roux, with the milk beaten in by stages so it thickens smooth instead of lumpy.

Egg yolk, oil and acid whisked by hand into a thick emulsion, with the drop-by-drop start that decides whether it holds or splits.

Cabbage and carrot salted, packed down and left to ferment under its own brine until it turns sour and keeps.

Basmati rinsed until the water runs clear and cooked by absorption, then rested off the heat with the lid on so the grains separate.
A light stock of leek, carrot, celery and onion simmered for only forty minutes, because long cooking turns vegetable stock bitter.

A mustard-emulsified dressing built on three parts oil to one part acid, a ratio worth memorising so you never need the recipe again.

Tinned tomatoes crushed by hand and cooked slowly with garlic until the oil splits back out, which is when the sauce is done.

Stock from a roast carcass, held at a bare simmer for hours so it stays clear, and what the onion and tomato soups both ask for.

Thin red onion slices covered in warm sweet-sharp brine, bright magenta and ready to eat in half an hour.