Tagliatelle al Ragù

Heat the oil and butter in a heavy casserole over medium heat.

Add the onion, carrot and celery and cook gently for 15 minutes, until soft and sweet without browning.

Add the pancetta and cook for 5 minutes, until its fat has run.

Raise the heat and add half the beef and pork, breaking it up, and cook for 6-8 minutes until browned rather than grey. Lift it out and repeat with the rest.

Return all the meat to the pan.

Pour in the milk and simmer, stirring now and then, until it has cooked away almost completely, about 15 minutes.

Add the wine and do the same again, about 10 minutes.

Stir in the tomato puree, the tomatoes and the salt, and add 200ml water.

Bring it to the barest simmer, with a bubble breaking every second or two, and set the lid slightly ajar.

Cook for 3 hours, stirring every half hour and adding a splash of water whenever it looks dry.

The ragù is ready when the fat has separated and sits glossy on the surface.

Taste for salt.

Cook the tagliatelle in well-salted boiling water for 2-3 minutes, until it floats and is just tender.

Drain it, reserving a mugful of the water, and fold it through the ragù in the pan over low heat, loosening with a little pasta water.

Serve with grated parmesan.