Roast Squash with Sage and Chilli

Heat the oven to 220C/425F.

Leave the skin on every crescent. It softens to the point of being edible on these varieties, and it is the only thing holding a wedge together once the flesh goes soft.

Toss the crescents with the 3 tbsp of olive oil and the 4g of fine salt, until every cut face is coated.

Spread them out on one or two large trays in a single layer, with space between the pieces.

Use the second tray rather than packing one. Squash is mostly water, a crowded tray fills with steam within minutes, and the pieces come out pale, wet and sweetish instead of browned.

Roast for 20 minutes.

Turn each piece onto its second cut face with tongs.

Roast for a further 15-20 minutes, until the cut faces are deep brown in patches and a knife tip meets no resistance at the thickest part.

Pull out any thin tapered end pieces as soon as they are done. Squash is sweet enough that the thin ends catch and turn bitter and black while the thick middles are still setting.

Heat the 2 tbsp of olive oil in a small frying pan over medium heat, until it shimmers.

Fry the sage leaves in a single layer for 15-20 seconds, until they stop bubbling and turn matt.

Lift them onto kitchen paper with a slotted spoon, where they crisp as they cool.

Take the sage out on time. It goes from savoury and crisp to black and bitter in about five seconds, and by the time the colour tells you, it has gone.

Fry the pumpkin seeds in the same oil for 1-2 minutes, until they swell and start to pop.

Take the pan off the heat and stir the sliced chilli into the hot oil.

Pile the squash onto a warm platter.

Squeeze the lemon juice over it.

Spoon the chilli oil and the pumpkin seeds over the top.

Scatter with the crisp sage and flaky salt, and serve hot.