Saag Paneer

Bring a large pan of water to the boil and drop in the spinach for 45 seconds.

Lift it straight into a bowl of ice water, then squeeze out as much liquid as you can.

Chop it coarsely — not to a paste — and set aside.

Heat 2 tbsp of the ghee in a wide pan and fry the paneer over a medium heat until golden on two or three sides. Lift it out and drop it into a bowl of warm salted water, which keeps it soft.

Add the last of the ghee and cook the onion for 8-10 minutes until properly browned at the edges.

Add the garlic, ginger and green chillies and fry for 2 minutes.

Add the cumin, coriander and turmeric and fry for 30 seconds, until they smell toasted rather than raw.

Stir in the chopped spinach and the salt and cook for 8 minutes, letting the liquid cook off.

Pour in the cream and simmer for 3 minutes.

Drain the paneer and fold it through with the garam masala.

Finish with the lemon juice, which lifts the whole thing out of heaviness.