Skillet Flatbreads

Whisk the flour, baking powder and fine salt together in a bowl.

Add the yoghurt and the olive oil.

Work the mixture into a soft dough with your hands, tacky rather than sticky.

Knead on the worktop for 2-3 minutes, until it is smooth and takes a fingerprint cleanly.

Cover and rest the dough for 10 minutes so the gluten relaxes and the rounds stop springing back under the pin.

Divide the dough into 8 even pieces.

Roll each piece into a ball and keep them covered.

Set a heavy frying pan or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat for 3-4 minutes, until a flick of water skitters across it and vanishes. A pan that is only warm dries the dough out before it can puff, and you get a leathery disc with no blisters.

Roll one ball out on a floured worktop to about 3mm thick and 18cm across. Roll them one at a time as the pan frees up; rounds left waiting stick to each other and dry at the edges.

Lay the round in the dry pan and cook for 60-90 seconds, until bubbles rise across the surface and the underside is spotted dark brown.

Adjust the heat from that first bread rather than from the clock, which is the same call the buttermilk pancakes in this collection turn on: scorched before it bubbles means too hot, pale after two minutes means too cool.

Flip it and cook for another 45-60 seconds, until it puffs in the middle and springs back when pressed.

Stack the cooked breads under a clean tea towel — the trapped steam is what keeps them soft.

Roll and cook the rest the same way.

Brush the warm breads with the melted butter.

Scatter a pinch of flaky salt over each one while the butter is still wet, since the flakes slide straight off a bread that has already dried.

Serve straight away, for scooping up dal, mopping out a shakshuka pan, or rolling around a spoonful of the quick pickled red onions.