Garlic Naan

Whisk the flour, yeast, sugar and fine salt together in a large bowl.

Beat the yoghurt into the warm milk until it is smooth.

Pour the yoghurt mixture and the oil into the flour.

Mix to a soft, slightly sticky dough.

Rest it for 10 minutes so the flour hydrates.

Knead for 8-10 minutes, until it is smooth and springy but still soft enough to take a fingerprint without resistance.

Keep it softer than a tin loaf dough. A firm naan dough rolls out tight, springs back at you and bakes into a biscuit.

Cover and prove at room temperature for 60-90 minutes, until doubled.

Divide the dough into 8 pieces of about 110g.

Roll each into a ball and keep them covered.

Rest the balls for 15 minutes, so they roll out without springing back.

Heat the grill to its highest setting.

Set a heavy cast-iron frying pan over the highest heat you have for 5 minutes, until a flick of water skitters across it and vanishes at once.

Melt the butter in a small pan with the chopped garlic over low heat for 60-90 seconds, until the garlic is pale gold and smells sweet.

Take it off the heat there. Garlic in hot butter goes from gold to bitter brown in seconds, and nothing brings it back.

Roll one ball out on a lightly floured worktop into a teardrop about 3mm thick, pulling one end longer as you go.

Scatter a pinch of the nigella seeds over it and give it one more pass with the pin to press them in.

Roll them one at a time, as the pan frees up. Rounds rolled in advance dry at the edges, stick to one another and lose the puff.

Lay the naan in the dry pan.

Cook for 60-90 seconds, until large bubbles rise across it and the underside is spotted black in patches.

Slide the whole pan under the grill for 30-60 seconds, until the top balloons and blisters.

Do not settle for a pan that is merely hot. The puff is steam, and the water in the dough has to turn to vapour faster than it can escape; at a lower heat the bread simply dries out flat.

Brush the hot naan with the garlic butter.

Scatter over the coriander and a pinch of flaky salt.

Stack the finished breads under a clean tea towel, where the trapped steam keeps them soft.

Cook the rest the same way.

Serve straight away, with the weeknight red lentil dal in this collection or anything else with sauce to mop.

The skillet flatbreads in this collection are the same shape without the yeast: they rise on baking powder, take twenty minutes start to finish, and come out thinner and less open than these.