Brown Butter Chocolate Chip Cookies

Brown the butter over medium heat for 5-8 minutes, until the milk solids turn amber and it smells nutty.

Cool the butter for 15 minutes, until it is warm rather than hot. If it is still hot when the eggs go in they scramble on contact, and the cookies bake out greasy and flat.

Whisk in both sugars until the mixture looks like wet sand.

Whisk in the eggs one at a time, letting each disappear before the next goes in.

Whisk in the vanilla.

Beat for a minute, until the batter turns glossy.

Fold in the flour, bicarbonate of soda and fine salt until just combined.

Fold through the chopped chocolate.

Cover and refrigerate at least 12 hours — the flour hydrates and the flavour deepens noticeably.

Scoop into 60g balls onto lined trays, leaving room to spread.

Bake at 180C/350F for 10-12 minutes, until the edges are set but the centres still look underdone. Pull the tray while they look underbaked rather than done — they carry on setting on the hot metal, and a cookie that looks finished in the oven is dry by the time it cools.

Sprinkle with flaky salt while the cookies are still hot.

Cool on the tray for 10 minutes before moving them.

The toasted honey granola in this collection comes out of the oven on the same call: soft on the tray, crisp once it is cold.