Swiss Roll

Heat the oven to 200C/400F.

Oil a 23x33cm swiss roll tin and line the base and sides with baking paper.

Whisk the eggs, the 125g of caster sugar and the vanilla together with an electric whisk for 6-8 minutes, until the mixture has tripled in volume, turned very pale, and a drizzle from the beaters sits on the surface for three seconds before sinking.

Give it the full time. There is no butter and no raising agent in this batter, so whipped-in air is the only thing lifting it, and an under-whisked mixture bakes into a thin leathery sheet.

Sift the flour and fine salt over the surface in three additions.

Fold each addition in with a large metal spoon, cutting down through the middle and sweeping around the side of the bowl, turning the bowl as you go.

Stop the moment the last streak of flour disappears. Every extra fold knocks out air you spent eight minutes putting in.

Pour the batter into the tin and ease it into the corners with a palette knife, tilting the tin rather than spreading hard.

Bake for 8-10 minutes, until the sponge is golden, springs back in the middle when pressed and has just started to shrink from the sides of the tin.

Lay a sheet of baking paper larger than the tin on the worktop while it bakes.

Scatter the 25g of caster sugar evenly over that paper.

Turn the hot sponge straight out onto the sugared paper.

Peel the lining paper off the sponge.

Trim about 5mm off each short edge with a serrated knife, since the crisp edges crack first.

Score a line right across the sponge 2cm in from one short edge, cutting halfway through, to give the first turn something to fold along.

Roll the sponge up from that edge with the sugared paper rolled inside it, working while it is still too hot to hold comfortably. A sponge left to cool flat has set in that shape, and it splits across the back the moment you try to curl it.

Cool the roll seam-side down on a rack for 40 minutes, until it is cold right through.

Whip the cold cream with the 15g of icing sugar to soft peaks that flop over when the whisk is lifted. Whipped stiff, it turns grainy and squeezes out of the ends as the roll closes.

Unroll the sponge carefully, leaving a slight curve in it rather than flattening it out.

Spread the jam over the sponge, leaving a 2cm border at the far edge.

Spread the cream over the jam.

Roll it back up without the paper, using the paper underneath to push and tighten the roll as it goes.

Chill for 20 minutes to firm the cream.

Dust with icing sugar.

Cut into 8 slices with a serrated knife, wiping it between cuts.