Lamb Rogan Josh

Pat the lamb dry with kitchen paper, which is the difference between browning and steaming.

Heat 2 tbsp of the oil in a heavy casserole over high heat.

Brown the lamb in three or four batches, about 4 minutes a batch, and lift each one out to a plate. A crowded pan will not colour.

Turn the heat to medium and add the remaining oil.

Add the cardamom pods, cinnamon, cloves and bay and let them sizzle for 30 seconds.

Add the onions and cook for 12 minutes, until soft and golden.

Add the garlic and ginger and cook for 2 minutes.

Stir in the chilli powder, coriander and fennel and cook for 30 seconds, off the heat if the pan is very hot, since these burn in seconds.

Return the lamb and any juices on the plate to the pan.

Take the pan off the heat and add the yogurt a spoonful at a time, stirring each one in fully before the next goes in.

Add the salt and 200ml water.

Bring it to a bare simmer, cover, and cook over the lowest heat for 2 hours, stirring every half hour.

Uncover for the last 20 minutes if the sauce is thinner than you want.

The lamb is ready when a piece falls apart under light pressure from a spoon.

Stir in the garam masala, taste for salt, and let it stand for 10 minutes before serving.