Curry Goat

Toss the goat with 2 tbsp of the curry powder, the salt and the pepper.

Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or overnight.

Heat the oil in a heavy casserole over medium-high heat.

Add the remaining 2 tbsp of curry powder and fry it for 40 seconds, stirring, until it darkens and smells toasted rather than dusty. This is the step called burning the curry.

Add the goat in two batches and brown it hard, about 5 minutes a batch, lifting each one out.

Turn the heat down, add the onions and cook for 8 minutes until soft.

Add the garlic, ginger, spring onions and thyme and cook for 2 minutes.

Return the goat and any juices, add the whole scotch bonnet, the allspice and the water.

Bring to a bare simmer, cover, and cook over the lowest heat for 2 hours.

Add the potatoes and cook uncovered for a further 30 minutes.

The goat is ready when it pulls away from the bone under a fork and the sauce coats the back of a spoon.

Lift out the scotch bonnet and the thyme stalks, taste for salt, and serve with rice and peas.